How to Stop Leash Pulling: A Step-by-Step Loose-Leash Walking Plan

If you’re trying to stop leash pulling, you’re not alone. It’s one of the most common (and most frustrating) walking problems. The good news: you can teach your dog to walk on a loose leash without yelling, yanking, or turning every walk into a tug-of-war.

This step-by-step plan teaches one simple idea: walking near you makes good things happen. You’ll start where your dog can succeed, then slowly add distractions until calm walks feel normal.

What “loose-leash walking” really means

Loose-leash walking isn’t a strict competition “heel.” For most families, it means:

• The leash stays mostly slack (a soft “J” shape).
• Your dog can sniff and look around, but doesn’t drag you forward.
• Your dog checks in with you often, especially when something exciting appears.

Why dogs pull on leash (so you can stop it)

Pulling usually isn’t “stubbornness.” It’s learning. If pulling works, dogs repeat it.

• Pulling gets them there. If your dog pulls and still reaches the tree or the other dog, pulling is rewarded.
• Outdoor smells are powerful. Sniffing is a huge part of how dogs explore the world.
• Big feelings spill into the leash. Excitement, worry, or frustration can turn into lunging or dragging.

The fix is simple in theory: stop rewarding pulling, and reward a loose leash.

Quick safety check before you train

If pulling is new or suddenly worse, check the basics first. A dog in discomfort won’t learn well.

• Make sure the collar or harness fits comfortably (not rubbing, not choking).
• Check paws and nails. Sore feet change how dogs move.
• If your dog limps, seems stiff, or avoids walks, talk with your vet before pushing training.

Set yourself up for success: simple gear that helps

You don’t need fancy tools, but the right setup makes learning faster.

Leash

• Use a 4–6 foot leash for training walks.
• Avoid retractable leashes while you teach loose-leash walking. They stay tight by design.

Harness or collar

Many dogs learn faster in a well-fitted harness because it reduces pressure on the neck. A front-clip harness can help you guide your dog back toward you when they surge forward.

Rewards

Bring small, soft treats your dog truly loves. In early sessions, “high value” matters. A treat pouch (or easy-access pocket) helps you reward quickly.

Teach the mini-skills before the walk (5 minutes at home)

Most leash battles start because we train when the world is already exciting. Teach these quick skills indoors first.

1) Pick a marker word

Say “Yes!” and give a treat. Repeat 10–15 times. Your dog learns the marker means, “You did it right.”

2) Teach a “check-in”

Stand still. The moment your dog looks at your face, mark and treat. Soon, your dog will offer eye contact on purpose.

3) Teach “touch”

Hold your open hand near your dog’s nose. When they bump it, mark and treat. “Touch” is a gentle way to re-connect outside.

4) Teach “find it”

Say “Find it!” and toss a treat on the floor. This becomes an easy reset when your dog is getting too hyped.

The step-by-step loose-leash walking plan

Each session can be 3–10 minutes. Short and successful beats long and stressful. If pulling explodes, it’s not “failure.” It’s feedback that the step is too hard.

Step 1: Create a “reward zone” next to you

Choose a side (left or right). With your dog near your leg, mark and treat right by your thigh. You’re paying for position.

Step 2: Take one step, then reward

Start indoors. Say “Let’s go,” take one step. If the leash stays loose, mark and treat. Repeat. If your dog rushes ahead, stop and wait for the leash to loosen, or ask for “touch,” then try again.

Step 3: Build up steps slowly

When one step is easy, do two steps before you mark and treat. Then three. If your dog starts pulling, drop back to an easier level.

Step 4: Add turns, stops, and speed changes

• Turn left or right and reward when your dog follows with a loose leash.
• Stop. When your dog stops too (or comes back), mark and treat.
• Walk a few steps faster, then slower, and reward your dog for staying with you.

Step 5: Move training to your yard or driveway

Outside is harder. Start in the easiest outdoor space you have. Reward more often again, like you did indoors. Walk in small loops so you can end on a win.

Step 6: Use “go sniff” as a reward

Sniffing is powerful. When your dog walks 5–10 steps with a loose leash, say “Go sniff!” and let them reach a safe sniff spot. Loose leash earns freedom.

Step 7: Start real walks with a warm-up

Many dogs pull hardest in the first few minutes. Before you leave, do 30–60 seconds of practice: a few check-ins, a couple “touch” reps, and 10 loose steps near home.

Step 8: Increase distractions with distance

If your dog pulls toward people, dogs, squirrels, or smells, don’t “power through.” Create space. Cross the street, step into a driveway, or turn around. Distance lowers the difficulty so your dog can succeed.

Exactly what to do when your dog pulls

The moment the leash goes tight, your response teaches your dog what pulling means.

Option A: Be a tree

• Stop walking as soon as the leash tightens.
• Stay quiet and still. Don’t yank back.
• Wait for the leash to loosen (a step back, a turn, or a glance at you).
• Mark, reward near your leg, then continue.

Option B: The calm 180-degree turn

If your dog is surging, turn around and walk the other way. When the leash is loose again, mark and reward. This is great for overexcited dogs.

Option C: “Touch” to re-connect

If your dog freezes on a distraction, ask for “touch,” mark, treat, and move away.

Tip: Avoid leash jerks. They can create frustration and make walks feel tense.

A simple practice schedule you can actually follow

Use this as a guide. Some dogs need a few extra days at each level.

Week 1: Build the habit

• Indoors: 3–5 minutes a day (reward zone, one-step, then a few steps).
• Yard/driveway: 5–8 minutes a day once indoors feels easy.

Week 2: Take it to quiet streets

• Warm up near home, then do a short route.
• Reward often in exciting spots. Use “go sniff” as your bonus.
• If pulling returns, shorten the walk and return to an easier place next session.

Common mistakes that keep leash pulling alive

• Letting pulling work “sometimes.” If pulling gets them to the park once, they’ll try again.
• Waiting too long to reward. Pay while the leash is slack, not after your dog is already ahead.
• Doing long walks too soon. Early training is about quality, not miles.
• Keeping constant tension. A tight leash all the time teaches that “tight” is normal.

Troubleshooting: what if…?

My dog pulls only at the start of the walk

Do a warm-up and start with a short “training loop” near home. That first block becomes practice, not chaos.

My dog won’t take treats outside

The environment is too hard. Move to a quieter spot, increase distance, and try better treats. Once your dog can eat, your dog can learn.

My dog pulls toward other dogs or people

Work farther away than you think. Reward check-ins and keep moving. If your dog is barking or lunging, you’re too close for learning in that moment.

I want my dog to sniff, but sniffing causes pulling

Make sniffing a reward. Ask for a few loose steps, then cue “Go sniff!” and walk to the spot together.

How to fade treats (without losing progress)

At first, reward a lot. Once your dog is reliable in easy places, start to mix it up:

• Treat more in hard spots and less in easy spots.
• Replace some treats with real-life rewards like sniff breaks and forward movement.
• Keep a few surprise treats in your pocket to keep the habit strong.

FAQ: loose-leash walking

How long does it take to stop leash pulling?

Many dogs improve in 1–2 weeks with daily practice, but strong habits can take longer. Look for progress: fewer tight-leash moments and faster recovery when pulling happens.

Is a harness better than a collar for leash pulling?

A well-fitted harness is often easier on your dog’s neck and can help you train without pain. Choose the option that keeps your dog safe and under control.

Can I use a retractable leash?

They’re not ideal for teaching loose-leash walking because the leash stays tight and teaches your dog to lean into pressure. Use a standard leash during training.

What if my dog is reactive on leash?

Loose-leash skills help, but reactivity needs extra work: more space, calmer setups, and a focus on emotions. If you feel unsafe, get help from a qualified professional.

Final tip: measure progress the right way

Don’t judge success by one “perfect” walk. Track the small wins: more slack leash, more check-ins, and fewer moments where your dog drags you. With short practice and clear rewards, walking together can feel easy again.